Proper introductions now that everything is settled.
meet Banana, my super-hypo tangerine baby C: soon to be joined by a mack snow morph. This little gecko you see is about 2 months old and is roughly 3 inches long at the moment. It should be like…7-9 inches when fully grown, depending on the sex (I haven’t sexed it yet, don’t want to stress it out)
So here i’m showing the habitat i’ve got set up. It’s a 20 gallon reptile tank with a sliding mesh top that locks in place to prevent escape. There are two heating mats on the hot side(one on the glass and one underneath) which keeps the temp at about 87. That climbing log hide is on the hot side, a coconut moist hide in the middle, and a log hide on the cool side. Also a piece stone of tile on the hot side that keeps the temperature up. The substrate is just a brown reptile mat (like a fake carpet thing, real easy to clean)
For diet the main staple is meal worms dipped in calcium powder with D3 (which you can see there is also a bowl for along with water on the hot side) I also keep crickets though I only feed one at a time( I don’t like crickets wandering around the tank) the crickets get fluker’s orange chunks and the meal worms have their own food that they come in.
The meal worm cup is pretty cool because you can throw a few in and they wiggle through the wholes and the gecko can “hunt” them instead of just getting them from a bowl.
like I mentioned, they also have a calcium(with D3) bowl and water. I’d like to get a slightly bigger bowl when they grow, so they can soak if they want.
The moist hide has a bed of moss I can mist when the first shed happens, to help their tails and toes. No shedding yet, but I look forward to seeing it for the first time.
c: so yeah, any more advice is welcome<3 everyone has been VERY helpful with their advice. I am aware that geckos live for up to 20 years, i’m prepared for that. But any more advice is still welcome! reblog with a comment or send me an ask. And remember not to be mean.
my new gecko~ plus habitat
Hey, congrats on Banana! I saw you were cool with advice, so here’s my spiel: Your tank size is spot on and should last him forever so don’t worry about sizing up. Where are you measuring temperatures in your tank? Geckos need belly heat, so if you can run the thermometer’s probe under the substrate or just on top of it, that’s ideal. I also recommend a temperature gun for spot-checking things. Ideally, you want the warmest bit of the tank to be around 95 at the substrate level and the cool end hitting around 75ish. Also, you might want to plug your heat mat into a thermostat so that it doesn’t get too hot- I’ve heard horror stories. Bad ones.
It’s also ideal to have three hides: warm, cool, and humid. The humid one can be filled with moss substrate or paper towel and kept moist- this helps with shedding.
I would also recommend tossing some food scraps to your crickets- vegetable ends and tops, fruit peels, that sort of thing. The better you feed ‘em, the tastier they’ll be for your Banana! It’s kinda hard to figure out exactly how much to feed them as juvies, but I would try pushing it- see if he’ll eat ten. You want them to eat a lot so those speedy metabolisms can work their magic!
As for substrates, ceramic tiles are pretty much the best. You can also use paper towels, which are cheap but not really pretty, or reptile carpets, which I really like for babies. Watch out for stuck toes if you go with the reptile carpets, though!
Maybe this won’t happen to you, especially if you have a thermostat, but just be careful with All Living Things brand heat mats. I had an Exo Terra heat mat for years, it still even works great to this day, but when I bought an All Living Things heat mat when I upgraded Kitty to his bigger tank it malfunctioned in a matter of months and burned him. Threw that one out and bought a Zoo Med heat mat and it’s been infinitely better. Like I said if you have a thermostat you might be fine, but I implore you to be careful.
OH and also forgot to add that you shouldn’t use calcium with D3 for every serving of mealworms. Too much D3 can cause health problems and should only be used once a week or even once every two weeks. D3 is used to help organisms absorb and utilize calcium and is found in UVB light, but in a mineral form it can cause calcification of soft tissue. If you want to use D3 calcium and vitamins you should also have some calcium/vitamins that have no D3 and use that instead for dusting your insects most of the time.